Depth rating must exceed the planned use
A camera described as waterproof to a shallow recreational depth may be fine for snorkeling but unsuitable for scuba diving. Housings have their own rated limits, and exceeding them risks catastrophic flooding. Leave margin rather than planning routinely at the exact maximum. Inspect seals before every dive and follow the manufacturer's maintenance instructions for O-rings and closure surfaces.
Large controls are easier underwater
Small touchscreens can be frustrating with wet fingers, gloves or pressure. Physical buttons that can be identified by feel simplify mode changes and recording. Housing controls should reach the camera reliably without excessive force. Before entering the water, set the likely mode and test every essential control on land; underwater is the wrong place to learn a complicated menu.
Wide-angle capability is especially useful
Water absorbs contrast and color over distance, so getting close to the subject usually produces better images. A wide field of view lets the camera frame reefs, divers or large animals from relatively short range. Digital zoom does not solve poor visibility. For macro subjects, close-focus ability and lighting become more important than a very wide lens.
Color changes rapidly with depth
Red and orange wavelengths disappear first as depth increases, giving images a blue or green cast. White-balance controls, filters and post-processing can help, but artificial light becomes necessary for vivid color on many deeper subjects. Built-in flashes are often weak underwater and can illuminate suspended particles. External strobes or video lights are more capable but add bulk and complexity.
Battery life shrinks when recording video and using screens
Cold water, high-resolution video and continuous screen use can reduce practical battery endurance. On a dive boat, changing batteries may be impossible without opening the housing in a dry environment. Start with a full charge and sufficient memory. If the camera uses removable batteries, keep spares dry and follow airline rules for carrying lithium cells.
Travel practicality includes the housing and maintenance kit
A small camera can become a large travel system once a housing, tray, lights, chargers and spare seals are included. Protect the housing from impact and keep O-ring surfaces free of sand, hair and lint. Rinse equipment in fresh water after salt use, operate buttons during rinsing if recommended and allow everything to dry before opening the housing.
Decide how much equipment you are willing to manage in the water
A compact camera on a wrist strap is easy to travel with, while a housing with tray, two strobes and focus lights can become a substantial dive system. Larger rigs demand good buoyancy because the photographer must control both body position and equipment without contacting the reef. New divers are often better served by improving diving skills before adding a complex camera. The best travel camera is not the system with the maximum image potential but the one you can operate safely and consistently underwater.
Before a major trip, do a complete housing test in shallow water without the camera if the housing manufacturer recommends it. A careful seal check is cheaper than discovering a trapped hair or damaged O-ring around expensive electronics.
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